The Quiet Craft of Khmer Sugar Palm: A Morning in Ampil Commune
The sugar palm is everywhere around Siem Reap, its tall trunk and fan of leaves marking field boundaries and village edges. But to see the craft that turns its…
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The Quiet Craft of Khmer Bronze Casting: A Morning in Tani Village
A Morning in Tani Village We leave Siem Reap just after sunrise, heading east on National Road 6. The air is still cool, and the rice fields on either side…
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The Quiet Craft of Khmer Basketry: A Morning in Chreav Commune
We wake early, before the heat settles over the rice fields, and ride south from Siem Reap along National Road 6. After about 15 minutes, we turn onto a red…
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The Quiet Craft of Khmer Mat Weaving: A Morning in Kralanh
A Craft Woven from the Floodplain We leave Siem Reap just after dawn, heading west on National Road 6 toward Kralanh. The drive takes about an hour, and the…
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The Quiet Craft of Khmer Silk Dyeing: A Morning in Puok
We wake before the heat settles, heading west from Siem Reap along National Road 6. The motorbike hums past sugar palms and rice paddies still silver with dew.…
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The Quiet Craft of Khmer Woodcarving: A Morning in Pradak
We leave Siem Reap just after sunrise, when the air is still cool and the light is soft. The road to Pradak village, about 15 kilometres east of the city,…
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The Morning Bells of Wat Preah Prom Rath: A Stroll Through Siem Reap's Living Monastery
The First Light Over the Monastery We set out before sunrise, walking the short distance from Siem Reap’s Old Market area to Wat Preah Prom Rath, the …
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The Night Market at Wat Damnak: A Stroll Through Siem Reap's Evening Flavours
The Night Market at Wat Damnak: A Stroll Through Siem Reap’s Evening Flavours The sun slips behind the palm trees, and the dusty lanes around Wat Damnak…
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The Ancient Art of Khmer Honey: A Morning with the Beekeepers of Angkor
A Sweet Morning in the Forest We left Siem Reap before the sun cleared the treetops, following a dirt track that wound through rice paddies and into the dry…
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The Art of Khmer Stone Carving: A Morning at the Angkor Handicraft Center
A Living Tradition In the shade of a thatched roof, the rhythmic tap of hammer on chisel is the only sound. We are at the Angkor Handicraft Center, a…
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The Temple of the Leper King: A Quiet Corner of Angkor Thom
A Different Kind of Temple Most visitors to Angkor Thom rush from the Bayon’s stone faces to the Terrace of the Elephants, then out through the Victory…
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The Art of Khmer Fermented Fish: A Day in Kampot's Prahok Yards
A Sticky, Salty Morning in Kampot We left Siem Reap before dawn, trading the temple crowds for a five-hour drive south to Kampot province. The air changed…
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Riding the Rails: A Day on the Bamboo Train of Battambang
The Bamboo Train: A Unique Ride We first heard the clatter before we saw it—a rhythmic, metallic rattle that seemed to come from the rice fields themselves.…
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Mud, Silk, and Morning Light: A Day Around Siem Reap
The quiet edges of Siem Reap Most visitors to Siem Reap know the temple loop, the pub street, and the sunrise at Angkor Wat. But the province has a slower,…
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