Riding the Rails: A Day on the Bamboo Train of Battambang

The Bamboo Train: A Unique Ride

We first heard the clatter before we saw it—a rhythmic, metallic rattle that seemed to come from the rice fields themselves. Then it appeared around a bend: a flat bamboo platform mounted on two sets of wheels, powered by a small gasoline engine, carrying a dozen grinning passengers and a mountain of bananas. This is the bamboo train, or norry, of Battambang, and it is one of the most delightful ways to see the Cambodian countryside.

The track runs from the village of O Dambang, about 8 kilometers south of Battambang town, through flat farmland toward the town of Moung Ruessei. The ride lasts about 30 minutes each way, covering roughly 7 kilometers of single-track railway. The track itself is narrow gauge, built during the French colonial period but now used almost exclusively by the bamboo trains. The sensation is unlike any other train ride: the platform sways gently, the engine chugs, and the wind rushes past as you sit cross-legged on the woven bamboo mat. You see water buffalo grazing in flooded paddies, palm trees bending in the breeze, and farmers waving as you pass.

The Journey: Villages and Scenery

The track passes through several small communities, each with its own rhythm. Just after leaving O Dambang, you cross a low bridge over a stream where children often swim in the late afternoon. Then the track runs alongside a series of vegetable gardens, where long beans and morning glory grow in neat rows. Around the halfway point, you reach the village of Prek Koy, where the train often stops briefly to pick up or drop off passengers. Here, you can see women weaving palm leaf thatch for roofs, and men repairing bicycles with improvised tools.

As you approach the end of the line, the landscape opens up into wide rice fields that stretch to the horizon. In the dry season, the fields are golden and dusty; in the wet season, they are a brilliant green. The final stop is a small platform near a cluster of houses and a tiny temple. If you have time, you can walk a few hundred meters to the temple, which is a peaceful spot with a view over the fields. The return trip is just as enjoyable, as the late afternoon light turns the countryside a soft amber.

The Mechanics: How It Works

The bamboo train is a marvel of simplicity. Each platform, called a norry, is made of bamboo slats laid across two metal axles. The wheels are metal, salvaged from old military tanks or trucks. A small engine, often a 6- to 10-horsepower gasoline motor, is mounted on one end and drives the axle via a belt. The driver sits on the platform, operating a simple lever to control speed. There are no brakes in the traditional sense—the driver slows down by reducing the throttle or, in an emergency, by dragging a wooden stick against the wheel.

When two trains meet on the single track, one must be dismantled. The passengers get off, and the driver lifts the platform off the axles and carries it to the side. The other train passes, and then the platform is put back together. This is a fascinating process to watch, and it happens frequently on busy days. The drivers are skilled and efficient, and the whole operation takes only a few minutes. It is a testament to the ingenuity of the local people.

Getting there

To reach the bamboo train, you can take a tuk-tuk from Battambang town. The ride takes about 20 minutes and passes through the town’s outskirts, then along a dusty road lined with palm trees and small shops. Alternatively, you can rent a bicycle and ride the 8 kilometers yourself, which is a pleasant way to see the countryside. The track is easy to find: look for the signs and the cluster of bamboo platforms at the start point. Most drivers will wait for you while you take the ride, and then bring you back to town. If you are coming from Siem Reap, it is a three-hour bus ride to Battambang, and you can easily do the bamboo train as a day trip.

Good to know

• The best time to ride is late afternoon, around 4 pm, when the heat has softened and the light is beautiful. Morning rides are also fine, but the sun can be intense.
• There is no fixed schedule; the train leaves when there are enough passengers. On busy days, you might wait 10-15 minutes. On quiet days, you might have the train to yourself.
• Wear clothes that you don’t mind getting dusty. The track is unpaved, and the ride can be bumpy. A scarf or bandana can help keep dust out of your mouth and nose.
• The fare is paid per person, and it is customary to tip the driver. The price is not fixed, so agree on the fare before you board. Check locally for the current rate, as it may have changed.

The bamboo train is a simple pleasure, but it is one of those experiences that stays with you. The sound of the engine, the feel of the wind, the smiles of the people you pass—these are the moments that make travel memorable. If you are in Battambang, do not miss it.

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