The Morning Bells of Wat Preah Prom Rath: A Stroll Through Siem Reap's Living Monastery

The First Light Over the Monastery

We set out before sunrise, walking the short distance from Siem Reap’s Old Market area to Wat Preah Prom Rath, the town’s oldest and most active pagoda. The air is cool and carries the faint smell of incense and frangipani. As we pass under the ornate gateway, the first monks in saffron robes are already sweeping the courtyard with soft, rhythmic strokes. The main sanctuary, with its colorful murals and shimmering mosaic tiles, glows in the amber light. We slip off our shoes and step inside, where the scent of old wood and burning candles wraps around us. A elderly nun nods as she arranges lotus flowers before a golden Buddha. The silence is not empty; it is filled with the whisper of prayers and the occasional deep bell.

Murals That Tell Stories

The walls of the main building are covered with vivid paintings, some restored, some fading gracefully. They depict scenes from the Reamker, the Khmer version of the Ramayana, and the life of the Buddha. We linger on a panel showing the churning of the ocean of milk, where gods and demons pull a serpent around a mountain. The colors are bold—ochre, indigo, vermilion—and the details invite close inspection. A guide, a young monk who speaks English, explains that the murals were painted in the early 20th century and restored in the 1990s. He points to a scene of a royal procession, where elephants and dancers move across the wall in a frozen celebration. We could spend an hour here, tracing the narratives with our eyes.

The Rhythm of Monastic Life

After the murals, we wander into the compound. Behind the main sanctuary, there is a school where novice monks study Khmer, Pali, and English. We hear the murmur of recitation drifting through open windows. In a shaded corner, a group of monks are folding their robes and preparing bowls for the morning alms round. The abbot, a gentle man with a warm smile, invites us to sit on a bench under a tamarind tree. He tells us that the wat is home to over a hundred monks and novices, many from poor rural families who come here for education and shelter. He speaks of the daily routine: meditation at 4:30, chanting at 5, alms at 6, and classes after breakfast. We listen, feeling the calm of a life structured around mindfulness.

A Stroll Through the Grounds

We take a slow walk around the grounds, which are more garden than temple complex. There are stupas covered in golden tiles, a small pond with lotus and turtles, and a bell tower with a massive bronze bell. We ring it gently—three times, as is customary—and the sound rolls across the compound. Near the back wall, we find a row of small shrines dedicated to various spirits, each with tiny offerings of fruit and incense. A monk is painting a new mural on an outer wall, a modern depiction of the Buddha’s enlightenment. He uses a fine brush, adding delicate leaves to the bodhi tree. We watch for a while, then thank him and continue. The sun is higher now, and the shadows have shortened, but the peace remains.

Getting there

Wat Preah Prom Rath is located on the west side of Siem Reap River, about a 15-minute walk from the Old Market (Psar Chas). From Pub Street, cross the bridge and head north along the riverbank; you will see the ornate entrance gate on your left. A tuk-tuk from anywhere in town costs a few dollars—agree on the fare before you start. The wat is open daily from early morning until late afternoon. There is no admission fee, but donations are welcome. The best time to visit is between 6 and 8 a.m., when the monks are active and the light is soft.

Good to know

Dress respectfully: cover your shoulders and knees. Sarongs are available at the entrance if you forget.
Photography is allowed in most areas, but ask before taking pictures of monks or inside the sanctuary during prayers.
You can join the monks for a simple breakfast of rice porridge and fruit around 7 a.m. Check with the abbot the day before.
If you wish to offer alms, buy some fruit or rice at the market and give it directly to the monks during their morning round, or leave it at the monastery kitchen.

Planning time in Siem Reap? Melbourne Residence is a quiet residential community of homes near Angkor Wat — explore the neighbourhood.