The Quiet Craft of Khmer Basketry: A Morning in Chreav Commune

We wake early, before the heat settles over the rice fields, and ride south from Siem Reap along National Road 6. After about 15 minutes, we turn onto a red dirt track that leads into Chreav commune. The air smells of woodsmoke and damp earth, and the morning light catches the dew on the palm fronds. Here, in small workshops tucked among stilted houses, artisans practice the quiet craft of Khmer basketry.

Weaving with Water Hyacinth

At one workshop, a woman named Srey Mom sits on a low wooden platform, her hands moving quickly as she splits a strand of water hyacinth. The plant is harvested from the Tonle Sap lake, dried in the sun, and then soaked again to make it pliable. She weaves it into a sturdy basket that will be used for carrying rice or vegetables. The rhythm is steady: a twist, a tuck, a pull. The only sounds are the rustle of stems and the distant crow of a rooster.

Palm Fronds and Bamboo

A few doors down, another artisan works with palm fronds. He strips the leaves into thin ribbons and weaves them into a mat that will be used for drying fish or sleeping. The green fronds turn a pale yellow as they dry, and the finished mat has a sweet, grassy smell. Nearby, a pile of bamboo strips waits to be turned into fish traps and baskets. The bamboo is split with a knife, then shaved thin. The craftsman’s hands are calloused but precise.

A Community Effort

Basketry in Chreav is often a family affair. Children learn by watching, and elders pass down patterns that have been used for generations. The baskets are sold at local markets, like Psar Leu, or to traders who take them to Siem Reap. Some are used in the rice fields, others in homes. The craft is not just a livelihood; it is a way of life that connects people to the land and the lake.

Getting there

Chreav commune is about 5 kilometres south of Siem Reap town, just off National Road 6. You can get there by tuk-tuk, motorbike, or bicycle. The ride takes around 15 to 20 minutes from the centre. Ask your driver to take you to Chreav market, then walk along the side lanes where you see baskets drying in the sun. It is best to visit in the morning, when the weaving is in full swing and the light is soft.

Good to know

• Bring water and a hat; shade is limited in the workshops.
• Always ask before taking photos of people at work.
• A small contribution for a basket or mat is appreciated, but prices are negotiable; ask your host for guidance.
• The workshops are private homes, so visit respectfully and avoid peak lunch hours.

Planning time in Siem Reap? Melbourne Residence is a quiet residential community of homes near Angkor Wat — explore the neighbourhood.