The Quiet Craft of Khmer Gold Leaf: A Morning in Svay Dangkum

The first thing we hear is the tap-tap-tap of small hammers on stone. It comes from a narrow lane off Svay Dangkum commune, where a handful of families have been beating gold into leaf for generations. We arrive mid-morning, when the light is strong enough to see the gold but not so hot that the work slows.

The workshop lane

There is no sign, just a row of open-fronted workshops where men and women sit on low wooden stools. In front of them are small anvils, bundles of bamboo paper, and squares of gold the size of postage stamps. The air smells of charcoal and faintly of metal. We watch as a craftsman places a tiny gold square between sheets of bamboo paper and hammers it flat, then folds and hammers again. It takes hours to turn one small piece into a sheet thin enough to float.

The gold beaters

The gold beaters work with a rhythm that feels almost musical. Each strike is light and precise. They tell us that the gold must be hammered evenly, or it will tear. The finished leaf is so delicate that a breath can send it flying. We are careful not to lean too close. In one corner, a woman uses bamboo tweezers to lift a sheet of gold leaf onto a statue of the Buddha. Her movements are slow and steady, and she does not look up as we watch.

Applying the leaf

Most of the gold leaf made here ends up on statues and stupas around Siem Reap. We are shown how the leaf is applied: a thin layer of lacquer is brushed onto the surface, and then the gold is pressed on with a soft brush. The result is a warm, glowing finish that catches the light. The craftsmen also make small packets of gold leaf for visitors to take away, though we are not sure of the price. Ask your host if you want to buy some.

Getting there

Svay Dangkum commune is just south of Siem Reap’s old market area, a short ride by tuk-tuk or bicycle. Tell your driver you want to visit the gold-leaf workshops in Svay Dangkum; they will know the lane. It is best to go in the morning, before the heat builds up. The workshops are not a formal attraction, so there are no set opening hours. Ask your host or driver to help you arrange a visit, and be respectful of the artisans’ space.

Good to know

• The lane is narrow and dusty, so wear shoes you don’t mind getting dirty.
• Bring small notes if you plan to buy gold leaf, as change can be hard to find.
• Photography is generally welcome, but ask before taking close-up shots of the artisans at work.
• The workshops are closed during major Buddhist holidays, so check locally before you go.

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