The Quiet Craft of Khmer Woodcarving: A Morning in Pradak

We leave Siem Reap just after sunrise, when the air is still cool and the light is soft. The road to Pradak village, about 15 kilometres east of the city, passes through rice fields and clusters of sugar palms. Our destination is a community of woodcarvers who have been shaping softwood into intricate ornaments for generations. Unlike the busy workshops near the temples, here the rhythm is slower, and the only sounds are the scrape of chisels and the occasional crow of a rooster.

The Workshop

We arrive at a wooden stilt house where a family has set up their workspace on the ground floor. Pieces of light-coloured wood, likely from the kapok tree, are stacked in a corner. A middle-aged man sits cross-legged on a low platform, a half-finished apsara dancer emerging from the block in his hands. He uses a set of small chisels, some no wider than a pencil, to carve the folds of her skirt and the curve of her smile. The wood is soft enough to cut with relative ease, but hard enough to hold fine detail. The smell of fresh shavings mixes with the aroma of incense drifting from a small altar in the corner.

A Family Tradition

The carver tells us he learned the craft from his father, who learned it from his grandfather. They used to make pieces for the temples, but now most of their work is for shops and hotels in Siem Reap. His wife sits nearby, sanding a finished piece with a dried leaf, a technique that gives the wood a smooth, natural finish. Their teenage son helps by drawing outlines on the wood with a pencil, following patterns passed down in a worn notebook. We watch as a piece of raw wood becomes a delicate flower, then a leaf, then part of a larger panel.

The Village

Pradak is not a tourist destination, and that is part of its charm. We walk down a red dirt lane, past houses where other families are also carving. In one yard, a woman paints a finished piece with a clear lacquer, using a brush made from palm fibre. In another, a man uses a small electric sander, a modern addition to the traditional toolkit. Chickens peck at the ground, and a water buffalo dozes in the shade. We are offered tea and sit on a wooden bench, watching the village go about its day. The pace is unhurried, and we feel no pressure to buy anything, though small pieces are available if we wish.

Getting there

Pradak is about a 30-minute drive from Siem Reap by tuk-tuk or motorbike. The road is paved most of the way, with a short stretch of dirt at the end. We recommend going in the morning, when the light is good and the carvers are fresh. Ask your tuk-tuk driver to take you to Pradak village, near the turning for Banteay Srei. It is best to arrange a return trip with your driver, as there are no taxis waiting in the village. If you prefer a guided experience, several local tour operators include a stop in Pradak on their way to the temples.

Good to know

• Bring small notes if you plan to buy a carving; most pieces are sold directly by the makers.
• The workshop is a private home, so ask permission before taking photos.
• Wear comfortable shoes, as the ground can be uneven and dusty.
• There are no restaurants in the village, so eat before you go or bring snacks.

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