The Temple of the Leper King: A Quiet Corner of Angkor Thom

A Different Kind of Temple

Most visitors to Angkor Thom rush from the Bayon’s stone faces to the Terrace of the Elephants, then out through the Victory Gate. We did that on our first visit too. But on a second, slower morning, we turned left instead of right and found the Terrace of the Leper King, a small, enclosed platform that most people walk past without a second glance.

It sits just north of the Terrace of the Elephants, separated by a narrow walkway. The name comes from a statue found here, now in the National Museum in Phnom Penh, which some believe depicts a leper king, though scholars debate whether it is actually Yama, the god of death. Whatever the truth, the terrace has a strange, solemn feel, especially in the early morning when the light is low and the stone is still cool.

The Hidden Gallery

The most remarkable part is the inner wall, which you reach by descending a few steps into a narrow corridor. This passage runs the length of the terrace, and both sides are covered with layer upon layer of carved figures: deities, warriors, dancers, and mythical serpents. The carvings are so deep and so detailed that they feel almost like a bas-relief tapestry. In places, the stone has been worn smooth by centuries of rain, but the faces still hold their expressions.

We spent nearly an hour in that corridor, running our fingers over the stone. There were no other visitors. The only sounds were birdsong and the distant rumble of a tourist bus. It was a completely different experience from the crowded central temples, and it gave us a sense of how Angkor must have felt when it was a living city, not just a monument.

The Terrace of the Elephants

After leaving the Leper King, we walked back along the Terrace of the Elephants, which is far more famous. This 350-metre-long platform was used for public ceremonies and as a viewing stand for the king. The carvings here are spectacular: elephants with their trunks lowered, garuda birds, and lions. But because it is open and wide, it attracts crowds, and by mid-morning we were ready to move on.

Instead, we followed a small path that leads east from the terrace, through a grove of trees, towards the small temple of Prasat Suor Prat. This row of twelve towers stands along the royal square, and although they look similar from a distance, each has its own character. We climbed the steps of one and looked out over the surrounding forest. It was a peaceful spot to sit and eat a snack, watching the occasional monkey swing through the branches.

Getting there

The Terrace of the Leper King is inside Angkor Thom, about 2 kilometres north of the South Gate. From Siem Reap town, it takes about 30 minutes by tuk-tuk to reach the South Gate, then another 5 minutes to the terrace itself. Most tour itineraries include Angkor Thom, so it is easy to combine with a visit to the Bayon or Baphuon. If you want to avoid the crowds, go early, before 8am, or late in the afternoon after 3pm. The site is open during the same hours as the rest of the Angkor Archaeological Park, which is generally from 5am to 6pm, but check locally for the current schedule.

Good to know

• The Terrace of the Leper King is part of the Angkor Archaeological Park, so you need the same pass as for Angkor Wat. Passes are sold at the main ticket office on the road to the park, and you can buy them for one, three, or seven days.
• There is no shade in the corridor, so bring a hat and water. The stone can get very hot by midday, but in the morning it is pleasantly cool.
• The carvings are fragile, so do not touch them more than necessary. The site is not roped off, but it is important to respect the heritage.
• If you have time, combine this visit with a walk to the nearby Phimeanakas temple, which is only a few hundred metres away. It is another quiet spot with a steep climb and a good view over the forest.

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